![]() ![]() When a dove gray chiffon crinoline with individual white feathers wispily hand-sewn to it by the thousand passed by, it somehow managed to outshine all its sparkling sisters. For now, weve lost the rocket ship displays, indoor beaches, and Gigi Hadid strong-arming runway crashers, but theres still much to be said about Chanels fall-winter collection. Couture is at its best, always, when it wears the fruits of its labors lightly. Here came Lagerfeld’s feather obsession poufs of peach ostrich and marabou trimmed the hems and sleeves of glittering columns-indeed, with the spontaneous air of doodles dashed off his sketch pad. From then on, it was all about silver sparkle and silhouette-the segue being an elegant narrow, ankle-length beige checked coat, subtly flecked with glitter and finished with an iridescent sequined collar and cuffs.Īs the show progressed into evening, slim, elgonated lines alternated with pretty ballerina-length crinoline skirts-and the silver sparkle showcased the maximum capabilities of the Lesage embroiderers. The Chanel suit, in myriad candy colors-mint, checkered pink, peach, lavender, yellow-got an emphatic shoulder and a wide, contrasting belt un peu ’80s, perhaps (that decade, after all, is being referenced everywhere). The Grand Palais phmre was completely done up in tweed for today’s Chanel. It was a Chanel Haute Couture collection that was as finely engineered by Karl Lagerfeld and the skilled petites mains of the house’s legendary workrooms as the. Once one had taken in the fact that the mirrored circular runway reflected the famed Art Deco mirrors of Coco Chanel’s stairs at her atelier on the Rue Cambon, there was nothing to distract from the contemplation of the essence of haute Chanel-ness itself.Īt the beginning, Lagerfeld put a sustained emphasis on tailoring-a neglected art in womenswear these days. There was no immersive set, no overt theme, and an absence of jokey accessories or visual puns. Chanel ’s fall-winter 2023 show was inspired by the camellia flower this season, symbolizing both strength and softness. I wanted the girls to look like walking fashion drawings,” said Karl Lagerfeld, adding, “And I must say, I love feathers!” It sounds contradictory, but this was a calm and stripped-back Chanel couture show by Lagerfeldian standards. 5 Things To Know About Chanel’s Floral-Themed FW23 Show. The day before presenting her Chanel resort collection on a sandy runway slicing through the pebbles of the Hotel Monte-Carlo Beach, the brand’s. It’s the reality for Lesage, Montex, Lemarié, Lognon, Goosens, Maison Michel, and Massaro-the heritage artisans now based at Le19M-whose painstaking, super time-consuming, beautiful pieces of craftsmanship are put into the world to contribute to a bigger picture: the full look.“I wanted something impeccable, clean. In the game of synergy, however, the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. The idea was more figuratively suggested in the three-dimensional knitting of a purple crop-top-and-culotte ensemble, or the hand-spun gold ribbon embroidery of the top in exit 26. 'The world is a dark place,' acknowledged Karl Lagerfeld after the latest Chanel spectacle, which took place amid a fog-shrouded forest on a bed of still-smoldering. ![]() ![]() ![]() You could see the façade’s organic grid-like structure in the tweed pockets that adorned the slender column coat that opened the show, and likewise on the tunic that followed. Viard echoed those lines-as well as elements from the building’s interior-in a collection she called “metropolitan.” Named after the arrondissement it inhabits, the triangular Le19M was designed by Rudy Ricciotti whose “concrete thread” façade evokes the intricacy of embroidered haute couture cloth. “I feel like I’m back at school when I’m here,” Viard said after the show, and she’d get top marks for organization. Virginie Viard invited guests to Le19M, the newly opened building devoted to the workshops of the maison’s artisans, where she presented her most crafts-centric collection within the very same architecture that had informed its cuts and motifs. With sweeping synergy, this season’s Métiers d’Art collection read like the limited Chanel edition of connect-the-dots. ![]()
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